Seven Secrets of Jane Birkin’s Original Hermès Birkin Bag Unveiled at Sotheby’s Paris Exhibition
Sotheby’s Paris unveils seven unique design features of Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin bag during the “Excellence à la Française” exhibition, showcasing this iconic piece of fashion history.
For the first time in France, Sotheby’s is showcasing Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin handbag, a design born from a chance meeting between Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a 1984 flight. As part of the “Excellence à la Française” exhibition—running October 12 to 31 at Sotheby’s new Paris headquarters—the world finally learns seven little-known design details that set this iconic bag apart from every Birkin made since.
The bag, loaned by Paris collector Catherine B., is more than a luxury item; it’s a piece of fashion history. Unlike later models, the original Birkin is a hybrid size with the width and height of a Birkin 35 but the depth of a Birkin 40—crafted to suit Birkin’s desire for a larger capacity, inspired by her habit of carrying a wicker basket.
Seven unique features distinguish the original:
- Closed metal rings reminiscent of the Hermès sac Haut A Courroies, later replaced by open rings.
- Gilded brass hardware predating the gold-plated finishes introduced in the mid-1980s.
- A zipper from the “éclair” company, before Hermès’ switch to Riri zippers in the 1990s.
- Smaller bottom studs than those on later Birkins.
- A non-removable shoulder strap, a design never repeated except for one limited edition in the 1990s.
- A nail clipper on a chain inside the bag, reflecting Birkin’s practical style.
- The bag’s condition bears sticker marks from Birkin’s activism with Médecins du Monde and UNICEF, making it a symbol of both fashion and conscience.
This exhibition marks the bag’s first appearance on French soil since previous displays at New York’s MoMA and London’s Victoria & Albert Museum.
Alongside the exhibition, Sotheby’s is running an online Handbags & Accessories auction featuring nearly 50 Birkins and other rare Hermès pieces, available for bidding through October 15.
Jane Birkin’s original Birkin is more than a bag—it’s an emblem of timeless style, artistic innovation, and cultural impact, now revealed in all its nuanced glory for the world to appreciate.
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